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Sunday, July 31, 2011

Super, Civil Scotland!


















Super, Civil Scotland!

The World's best kept Secret

My wife and I have just done something that on the face of things was not very rational: we left the warmth of Spain to travel to the very last point of the Scottish mainland, John O’Groats, which was very chilly, wet and miserable. There was a method to our madness, and the plane going over was carrying Scots returning from Benidorm, and the
plane that brought us back to Spain was filled with more Scots going to Benidorm.

We travelled to the town of Helmsdale on the East coast of Scotland to visit our son who works there at a hotel. Without that motivation we would not have ever found ourselves at the end of the mainland and we might never have had such a wonderful adventure. Scotland is a very special treat on the eyes, and as proof of that is the sheer number of native Scots people who tour around the Highlands in their motor homes.

Our journey took us from Edinburgh to Tomintoul, that is in the heart of the Cairngorms in the vicinity of Inverness; then on to that town itself. A trip to Loch Ness was in order, although I’m not sure why. There is no Loch Ness monster, and there never has been, although by now they could have built one to make scheduled appearances. Then on to spend the night in a town called Beauly that reminds me of certain Southern towns in America that are home to citizens of a Red Neck persuasion. The landlord of the Bed and Breakfast could not have been more pleasant and hospitable.

The next day we arrived at our destination, The Bridge Hotel in Helmsdale. Our son had only commenced his employment there the week before we arrived. The town is a very small fishing village, and the pace of life is slow. Our son will have to be creative in filling his spare time, but the people with whom he is working are a good group, and the hotel is wonderful.

Although it was getting towards the end of the day we all drove up to John O’ Groats, called the most Northerly point of the mainland. As mentioned it presented unpleasant weather conditions, and I could only wonder at what life must be like for the residents of the Shetland and Orkney islands in the cold North Sea.

Our trip back down to Edinburgh was via the West Coast. In my opinion this is the best face of Scotland, presenting scenes of such incredible beauty that the mind needs time to fully take it all in. We needed to have stopped and had a picnic while saturating our senses. Even seen from a picture would not be sufficient to adequately tell the tale. There are unlimited lakes and rivers and mountains and valleys and forests and picture-postcard harbours and castles that you might get the impression that this is a grand park created for the tourists by the Scottish tourist Board.

The principal reason why the beauty of it all is so significant is that it is just how Mother Nature made it. If you turn your head away from the road that you are on you will see a kaleidoscope of terrain never ever touched by man. That is pretty special!

Driving in the Highlands of Scotland (the North) presents a challenge in staying absolutely focused on what you are doing. For the driver, this is very difficult to do because the scenery is so compelling. In the Lowlands (the South) some roads are major highway standards, such as the M9, however, as we progress farther North we get to drive on Class A roads, which are one lane in either direction. However, for those roads that course through the really scenic parts we are presented with Class B, or even Class C roads. These are one lane with passing places. They are very dangerous and allow no opportunity to glance around and take in the sights. To do that you will have to stop at designated parking places that are usually situated in recommended photo-op places.

Two points worth making are there are many blind hilltops when you drive up a steep slope, and you cannot see if anything is coming up the other side. Usually there is a little space for one of the vehicles to pull off to the side at the top, but these situations must be approached with great caution.

Secondly, the remote villages have snow gates at both ends of the road. There will be times during the Winter when the gates are closed, thereby sealing the residents in the village as the snow will be impassable. Pity the poor bugger who is caught out in the lonely outback when the blizzard starts. There is no shelter except possibly the odd Bed and breakfast inn, if you are very lucky.

As unsatisfactory as the “B” and “C” roads are, it would still be a grave mistake for the Scottish government to push through highways in these places as the main attraction is how little mankind has encroached on the natural beauty.

This was one of the things on my “Bucket” list that I am now able to cross off, and I am very glad that we had such a sensational experience. I would definitely pay a return visit to Bonny, Warm Scotland.

Copyright © 2011 Eugene Carmichael